Douglas & McIntyre
Vancouver Cooks 2

Book details:

October 2009
ISBN 978-1-55365-261-8
Paperback - Trade
7" x 10"
224 pages
60 colour photographs, 100 b&w photographs
Cooking / Food and Wine
$9.95 CAD

Awards

Douglas & McIntyre

Vancouver Cooks 2

Excerpt / Additional Content

Salade de Homard, from Le Crocodile, Michel Jacob

  • 2 lobsters, each 1 1/4 lbs
  • 4 large red-skinned potatoes, skins on
  • 6 stalks asparagus
  • 1 Tbsp finely chopped onion
  • 2 Tbsp very thinly sliced radishes
  • 4 leaves basil, torn
  • 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 2 Tbsp white wine vinegar
  • 1 Tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 1/2 English cucumber, peeled, seeded
  • 4 quail eggs, hardboiled, peeled

The lobster, asparagus, potatoes and quail eggs can all be prepared in the morning and refrigerated, covered, until serving time, making this an ideal dish for entertaining. Serves 4

Place 8 cups of water in a large stockpot and stir in 2 Tbsp salt. Bring the water to a rolling boil on high heat, add a steaming basket, and put in lobsters. Cover the stockpot and steam lobsters for 6 minutes, then remove them from the pot and allow to cool. Remove meat from the shell, taking care to remove meat from the tail as neatly as possible. Remove claws whole and keep separate for garnish. Refrigerate lobster meat and claws until needed, then thinly slice meat from lobster tail.

Fill a pot with salted water and bring to a boil on high heat. Add potatoes and cook for about 15 minutes, or until soft. Drain and refrigerate. When cool, slice thinly.

Break off and discard tough bottoms of asparagus. Fill a bowl with ice water. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil on high heat, then add asparagus and cook for about 4 minutes. Drain and place in ice water to cool and retain colour. Drain, then cut into 3/4-inch lengths.

Place sliced lobster tail meat, potatoes, asparagus, onion, radishes and basil in a large bowl. Make a dressing by mixing together lemon juice, oil, vinegar and mustard in a small bowl. Pour just enough of the dressing over the lobster salad to moisten the ingredients and toss gently.

To Serve Cut cucumber thinly lengthwise into four slices and place one on the bottom of each chilled plate. Arrange lobster salad in the centre. Cut quail eggs in half and set on top. Drizzle the remaining dressing over all. Crack lobster claws and place one on each plate.

Wine Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Chardonnay or Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars Chardonnay

Late Summer Vegetable Lasagna, from Mo:Le Restaurant, Cosmo Meens

Zucchini Noodles

  • 4 to 5 medium zucchini
  • 1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar for each layer
  • 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil for each layer

Spiced Walnuts

  • 2 cups chopped carrots
  • 1 cup chopped red bell pepper
  • 1 cup chopped tomatoes
  • 3 cups walnuts
  • 2 tsp chili powder
  • 2 tsp cumin seeds
  • 2 tsp fennel seeds
  • 2 tsp Celtic sea salt or fleur de sel
  • 2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
  • 3 Tbsp olive oil

Marinara Sauce

  • 2 cups sun-dried tomatoes
  • 2 cups bottled spring water
  • 5 large Medjool dates, pitted
  • 2 medium cloves garlic, peeled
  • 1 cup chopped vine-ripened tomatoes
  • 6 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • Pinch of smoked paprika (optional)
  • 1/4 tsp cracked black pepper
  • Pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)
  • 2 Tbsp roughly chopped oregano leaves

Parsley Salsa

  • 1 cup chopped parsley
  • 1 cup chopped red bell pepper
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 1/2 tsp Celtic sea salt or fleur de sel

Filling

  • 1 Tbsp finely chopped oregano
  • 2 Tbsp finely chopped parsley
  • 3 to 4 ripe tomatoes, cut into a total of 18 slices
  • 6 calendulas or other edible flowers (optional)

A totally raw, vegetarian lasagna can taste really good, thanks to the bounty of late summer vegetables. Serves 6

Zucchini Noodles Slice zucchini thinly lengthwise, using a knife or a mandoline. Individual lasagnas will each require 4 to 8 slices of zucchini, depending on the size of zucchini; for six servings, prepare 24 to 48 slices.

In a flat, non-reactive pan 9 x 13 inches, lay out slices of zucchini in a layer to cover the bottom. Drizzle with 1 Tbsp vinegar and 1 Tbsp oil, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Repeat until you have used up all the zucchini. Cover and leave at room temperature for a few hours. (For extra flavour, place the marinated zucchini in a dehydrator or grill, though then the dish will no longer be raw.) Refrigerate until needed.

Spiced Walnuts Place carrots, red pepper and tomatoes in a food processor and pulse. Add walnuts and pulse again until everything is all minced together. Transfer to a bowl.

Place chili powder, cumin seeds, fennel seeds and sea salt in a spice mill or clean coffee grinder, then grind into powder. Stir the spice powder, vinegar and oil into the walnut mixture. Refrigerate until needed.

Marinara Sauce Soak sun-dried tomatoes in water to cover for 30 to 40 minutes, or until soft. Drain and discard soaking water. Place sun-dried tomatoes, spring water, dates, garlic, tomatoes, vinegar, salt, paprika (optional), black pepper and cayenne pepper (optional) in a blender and process at high speed. If your blender is struggling, you may need to add a touch more water. Stir in oregano, then refrigerate until needed.

Parsley Salsa Place all of the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until well mixed and slightly chunky.

To Serve Remove all of the lasagna ingredients from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature.

Lay one large or two small overlapping zucchini strips on each plate. Sprinkle with oregano and parsley. Spread about 3 Tbsp of the spiced walnut mixture evenly along the centre of the zucchini, leaving a little space on each side. Arrange another layer of zucchini on top, then spoon the marinara sauce along the centre, leaving a little space on each side. Next, add a layer of three slices of tomato. Repeat the layering process, minus tomato slices, until all the zucchini has been used. Place a dollop of parsley salsa on top. Season with freshly ground black pepper and garnish with a calendula (optional).

Wine JoieFarm Wines Rosé

Halibut with Morels and Brown Butter Sauce, from Pied-à-Terre, Andrey Durbach

Brown Butter

  • 1 lb butter, unsalted

Parsley and Garlic Pommes Purée

  • 4 cups milk
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 6 cloves garlic, peeled
  • 4 medium Yukon Gold potatoes,peeled, in 1-inch dice
  • 3 Tbsp finely chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley

Lettuce and Peas

  • 1 Tbsp butter
  • 3 oz smoked bacon, in 1/4-inch dice
  • 12 pearl onions, blanched and peeled
  • 1 yellow carrot, blanched, in 1/4-inch dice
  • 1 orange carrot, blanched, in 1/4-inch dice
  • 2 small gem lettuces, cut in half
  • 2 sprigs thyme
  • 1/2 cup chicken stock
  • 1/2 cup frozen peas

Halibut

  • 4 fillets halibut, each 6 oz, cut into 2 escalopes each
  • Flour for dredging
  • 4 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1 Tbsp butter

Brown Butter Sauce

  • 1/4 cup + 2/3 cup brown butter, plus extra for garnish
  • 1 lb morel mushrooms, halved
  • 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 1 Tbsp soy sauce
  • 1/2 cup brown veal jus or dark
  • chicken stock (made with roasted bones)

Halibut, with its snowy white, non-oily flesh, is a perfect foil for the morel and brown butter sauce. Serves 4

Brown Butter Melt butter in a small, deep, heavy-bottomed pot on low heat. Stir constantly and be careful not to let it burn; wait patiently for about 10 minutes for butter to become a deep rich hazelnut brown. Decant the clear brown butter carefully, leaving behind the dark debris at the bottom of the pot. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean container and discard solids. Cover and refrigerate. (You will not need all of the brown butter for this recipe, but it will keep refrigerated longer than unsalted butter because the milk solids have been eliminated. Brown butter is delicious on steamed vegetables.)

Parsley and Garlic Pommes Purée Place milk, oil and garlic in a large pot on medium heat and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to low and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, or until garlic is soft. Add potatoes and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until soft. Drain potatoes and reserve the cooking liquid.

While potatoes are hot, mash them vigorously, then whip in a stand mixer (or with a hand-held beater), adding back enough of the reserved cooking liquid to make the potato mixture soft but not runny. Pass the potato mixture through a fine-mesh sieve for extra smoothness, if desired. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Fold in parsley just before serving.

Lettuce and Peas Preheat the oven to 425˚f. Melt butter in a wide, shallow ovenproof frying pan on medium-high heat. Add bacon, onions, and yellow and orange carrots, then sauté for 1 minute. Add lettuces, thyme and stock, then bring to a boil. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and bake in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until carrots are tender.

Return the frying pan to the stovetop on medium heat, add frozen peas and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until done. Drain and discard any excess liquid. Remove and discard thyme. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Halibut Season fish with salt and pepper. Lightly dredge fish in flour, then shake off the excess. Heat oil and butter in a large nonstick frying pan on medium heat, just until butter begins to brown. Add fish and sauté gently for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until just done (the fish should be soft to the touch and still slightly opaque in the centre.)

Brown Butter Sauce Make this sauce at the last minute. Heat 1/4 cup of the brown butter in a frying pan on medium-high heat. Add morels and sauté for several minutes, or until soft. Stir in lemon juice, soy sauce and veal jus. Bring to a boil, then add the remaining 2/3 cup of the brown butter, and boil again to emulsify. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To Serve Place pommes purée in the centre of each warmed plate and top with two pieces of fish. Arrange vegetables around the edge, keeping within the rim of the plate. Garnish with a drizzle of brown butter sauce.

Wine NkíMip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay

Pear Almond Tart, from Thomas Haas Fine Chocolates and P‚tisserie, Thomas Haas and Esther Tso

Shortbread

  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 3/4 cup butter
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1 1/2 cup + 2 Tbsp all purpose flour
  • 1 egg, beaten, only half of which may be needed

Black Currant Jam

  • 1/2 cup black currant purée
  • 1/2 cup + 2 Tbsp sugar

Almond Cream

  • 3/4 cup + 1 Tbsp (7 oz) unsalted butter
  • 1 1/2 cups + 2 Tbsp icing sugar
  • 1 1/2 cups blanched ground almonds
  • 2 Tbsp cornstarch
  • 2 large eggs, beaten
  • 2 to 3 Tbsp slivered almonds for garnish
  • Cinnamon for dusting

Kalamansi-poached Pears

  • 2 2/3 cups sugar
  • 12 cups water
  • 1 piece star anise
  • 2 vanilla beans, slit lengthwise
  • 1/2 cup kalamansi purée
  • 5 Bartlett pears

If you cannot find black currant purée, use huckleberries or organic blueberries. Combine 1 cup berries with 1/2 cup + 2 Tbsp sugar in a pot on medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, stir and remove from the heat. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding solids. Kalamansi is a small citrus fruit similar to lime mixed with tangerine. The purée is sold at Filipino grocers. If you canít find it, use lime juice. Serves 8

Shortbread Cream together sugar, butter and salt in a bowl. Add flour without overmixing the dough. Add only enough egg, mixing gently, to hold the dough together. Gather the dough into a ball and flatten, then wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for a minimum of 1 hour.

Black Currant Jam Combine black currant purée and sugar in a pot on medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, stir and remove from the heat. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, discard solids and allow to cool before using.

Almond Cream Have all of the ingredients at room temperature. Use a stand mixer with a paddle attachment to cream together butter and sugar. Remove the bowl from the mixer. Combine ground almonds and cornstarch in another bowl. Alternately add almond mixture and beaten eggs to the butter mixture, stirring just until combined.

Kalamansi-poached Pears To make the poaching liquid, pour sugar into a heavy pot on medium heat and do not stir. As the sugar begins to caramelize, shake and swirl the pan gently to prevent the sugar from burning in any one spot. Once the sugar has melted into a rich caramel brown, deglaze the pan slowly and carefully with water, as the mixture will splatter. Stir until sugar is totally dissolved. Add star anise, vanilla beans and kalamansi purée.

Peel and core pears, add to the poaching liquid, then simmer until tender. Remove from the heat and place a plate over the pears to keep them submerged in the poaching liquid as they cool.

To Assemble Preheat the oven to 325˚f. On a lightly floured surface, roll out shortbread dough into a circle 111/2 inches in diameter and 1/8-inch thick. Use it to line a 9-inch tart pan (with removable bottom). Cut off excess dough and crimp around the edge.

Pipe or spread black currant jam on the bottom of the tart. Next, pipe or spread a layer of almond cream to within three-quarters of the top. Cut poached pears in half, then slice each half vertically into about eight pieces. Keeping the slices together, arrange pears on top of almond cream to cover. Sprinkle the top with slivered almonds and a dusting of cinnamon. Bake in the oven for 45 to 60 minutes, or until the centre of the tart is set. Remove from the oven.

To Serve Serve the tart at room temperature. Cut into eight wedges and place each on a warmed serving plate.

Wine Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards Winery Riesling Icewine or Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate Proprietorís Reserve Riesling Icewine