Douglas & McIntyre
West

Book details:

October 2008
ISBN 978-1-55365-357-8
Hardcover
9" x 10"
240 pages
100 colour photographs
Cooking / Food and Wine
$50.00 CAD

Awards

  • Winner of Best Innovative Cookbook in Canada at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards

Douglas & McIntyre

West

The Cookbook

Excerpt / Additional Content

from

Fall Recipes

Tian of Dungeness Crab and Couscous with Smoked Tomato Gazpacho

CRAB AND COUSCOUS TIAN

  • 16 cups court bouillon
  • 1 Dungeness crab (about 2 lbs)
  • 1 cup couscous
  • 3/4 cup water
  • 1/2 tsp saffron
  • 1/2 red pepper, finely diced
  • Juice of 1 lime
  • Zest of 1 lime
  • 2 Tbsp raisins, chopped
  • 10 leaves cilantro, finely julienned
  • 2 Tbsp mayonnaise
  • 1 tsp hummus
  • Juice of 1 lemon
  • 1/2 tsp basil oil

SMOKED TOMATO GAZPACHO

  • 4 ripe Roma tomatoes
  • 1/2 medium carrot
  • 1 shallot
  • 1/2 red pepper
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 2 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1/4 cucumber, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
  • 3 basil leaves
  • Juice of 1 orange
  • 1/2 tsp sugar
  • 1/4 tsp cumin seeds, toasted
  • 1/4 tsp paprika
  • 1 1/2 Tbsp sherry vinegar
  • 1 bread roll, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • 1/4 cup tomato juice

Serves 4

CRAB AND COUSCOUS TIAN Bring court bouillon to a boil in a large pot on high heat. Add crab and cook for 8 minutes. Allow it to cool, crack the shells and pick out the crab meat. Reserve four nice-looking leg pieces for garnish.

Place uncooked couscous in a large heatproof bowl. Bring the water to a boil with saffron and a pinch of salt. The water will turn bright yellow. Pour this water over the couscous, gently stirring with a fork to get rid of any big lumps. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow it to sit for 20 minutes. Set aside at room temperature.

Preheat the oven to 350°f. Place the red pepper in a roasting dish and roast it in the oven for about 20 minutes until brown. Peel off the skin and remove the seeds. Finely dice half of it, reserving the other half for the gazpacho or another recipe. Add the diced red pepper to the couscous, along with the lime juice, lime zest, raisins and cilantro. Mix the crab meat with mayonnaise, hummus, lemon juice and salt.

Cut a 12-inch x 12-inch piece of plastic wrap. In the centre of the plastic wrap, spread a ¼-inch layer of couscous measuring about 6 inches x 3 inches. Spoon half of the crab mixture into the centre of the couscous rectangle. Using the plastic wrap, tightly roll the crab meat into the couscous, as if rolling sushi, to make a long cylinder about 1½ inches in diameter. Tie both ends of the plastic wrap and allow the cylinder to set in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours—any less time and the roll may fall apart. Cut another 12-inch x 12-inch piece of plastic wrap and repeat with the rest of the couscous and crab to make a second roll.

SMOKED TOMATO GAZPACHO Place the charcoal in the oven for 15 minutes to get it very hot. Remove it from the oven, then use a kitchen torch to ignite the charcoal and allow it to burn for 3 minutes. Place the charcoal in a solid stainless-steel pot. Sprinkle a handful of dry smoking wood chips on and around the charcoal. Place a perforated tray covered in aluminum foil 4 inches above the charcoal, then set the tomatoes on the foil, cover the pot and smoke for 5 minutes. Preheat the oven to 350°f.

Toss carrot, shallot, red pepper and garlic in a roasting pan with the olive oil and roast for about 15 minutes until golden brown, stirring the vegetables halfway through.

Place the roasted vegetables, smoked tomatoes, cucumber, basil, orange juice, sugar, cumin, paprika, sherry vinegar and bread in a large non-reactive bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours. Transfer this mixture to a food processor. Add tomato juice and blend for 3 to 4 minutes, then pass it through a fine sieve and season with salt and pepper.

TO SERVE In each of four soup bowls, ladle a quarter of the gazpacho. Unwrap the rolls and slice into 2-inch-tall tians, placing a tian in the centre of the gazpacho. Drizzle basil oil around the tian and top with a piece of crab leg meat.

SUGGESTED WINE Rich, lush, concentrated whites like good Alsace pinot gris or muscat and viognier from Australia are best.

Noisettes Of Veal Sweetbreads With Mushroom Duxelle

  • 1 lb veal sweetbread hearts
  • 4 carrots, peeled
  • 2 Tbsp olive oil
  • 1 clove garlic, chopped
  • 1 onion, finely diced
  • 9 oz button mushrooms, finely chopped
  • 10 sprigs thyme, leaves picked off and stem discarded
  • 1/3 cup Madeira
  • 2/3 cup whipping cream
  • 8 tsp cold unsalted butter
  • 3 pods cardamom
  • 1 cup chicken stock
  • 1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
  • 1/2 lemon
  • Deep-fried parsley for garnish

Serves 4

Veal sweetbreads, when roasted, deliver a crunchy exterior and a creamy smooth but firm interior. If possible, ask your butcher for veal sweetbread hearts, as these are the best, but you can use the entire veal sweetbread or lamb sweetbreads as well.

Soak sweetbreads for 2 hours in cold water. Extract them from the water, then place them in a large pot of salted water and bring to a boil. Remove from the water and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes or until cold, then peel off the fine membrane. Break into twelve equal pieces.

Cut the carrots into sticks 2 inches long and ¼ inch square; set aside the carrot trimmings. Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Add carrot sticks and blanch for 2 minutes, then drain and plunge them into an ice bath to refresh. In a small sauté pan, heat 2 tsp of the olive oil on medium heat. Add the garlic and half of the onion, and sweat for 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and thyme, and cook until all excess moisture has evaporated, about 2 minutes.

Deglaze with Madeira and continue to cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until almost all of the liquid has evaporated. Pour in cream and heat again until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Season this mushroom duxelle with salt and pepper.

Finely cut the reserved carrot trimmings. In a small sauté pan, heat 2 tsp of the olive oil and 4 tsp of the butter on medium heat. Add the remaining half of the onion and sweat for 2 to 3 minutes. Add carrot trimmings and cardamom, then cover with chicken stock and cook for 12 to 15 minutes until carrot is soft. Purée this mixture in a blender, then strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a small saucepan. Add orange juice. Heat this liquid on medium heat until the sauce is reduced to the consistency of cream, about 5 minutes. Whisk in 2 tsp of cold butter. Season this sauce with salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Heat the remaining 2 tsp of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed sauté pan on high heat. Season sweetbreads with salt and pepper, then add them to the pan. Sear for 1 to 2 minutes, then add the remaining 2 tsp of butter and heat it until it foams. Continue cooking sweetbreads until golden. Season with salt and pepper and drain on paper towels.

TO SERVE On each of four plates, spoon a quarter of the mushroom duxelle. Drag a spoon through the duxelle to create a small channel. Arrange carrots in a pile at one end of the channel and place three pieces of sweetbread on top. Spoon the sauce into the channel and around the plate. Garnish with fried parsley.

SUGGESTED WINE This dish calls for your finest aged Burgundy in the cellar to pair with the soft, delicate flavour of sweetbreads. The slight woodsy notes of the mushrooms and earthy Burgundy go hand and hand.

Loin Of Rabbit Farci With Baby Artichokes, Braised Thigh And Green Olive Tapenade

BABY ARTICHOKES

  • 5 tsp olive oil
  • 1 shallot, finely chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
  • 8 baby artichokes, outer leaves removed, then halved
  • 1/4 cup white wine
  • 1/4 cup chicken stock
  • 1/2 oz sage, chopped (about 1 Tbsp)

GREEN OLIVE TAPENADE

  • 1 1/2 oz green olives, pitted
  • 1/3 oz sundried tomatoes
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 1 tsp olive oil

RABBIT SHOULDER AND THIGH

  • 1 Tbsp unsalted butter
  • 5 tsp olive oil
  • Shoulders and thighs of two whole rabbits
  • 2 carrots, chopped
  • 2 ribs celery, chopped
  • 1 small onion, chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
  • 2 cups Madeira
  • 3/4 cup chicken stock
  • 1/2 oz green olives, pitted
  • 1 oz ricotta cheese
  • 3 1/2 oz pasta dough

ROASTED RABBIT LOINS

  • Loins and bellies of 2 whole rabbits
  • Kidneys and livers from 2 whole rabbits
  • 4 sheets caul fat, soaked in water
  • 12 baby carrots
  • 1 cup vegetable oil for deep frying
  • 12 sage leaves, for garnish

Serves 4

For this dish you will need two whole rabbits, about 2 to 2½ lbs each. Ask your butcher to split the rabbits into thighs, shoulders and loins with bellies. You’ll also need the rabbit kidneys and livers—to wrap in the rabbit loins—but they can be hard to find, so if they are not available, wrap one sage leaf and 1 Tbsp of green olive tapenade in each of the four loins.

BABY ARTICHOKES In a medium sauté pan, heat 1 Tbsp of the olive oil on medium heat. Add shallot and garlic and sweat until soft, about 2 minutes. Add artichokes and sweat for another 3 to 4 minutes. Add wine and stock. Cover with a parchment cartouche and braise until tender, about 12 minutes. Finish with the remaining 2 tsp of olive oil and chopped sage.

GREEN OLIVE TAPENADE In a food processor, blend olives, sundried tomatoes, garlic and oil.

RABBIT SHOULDER AND THIGH Preheat the oven to 275°f. In a large ovenproof pan, heat butter and 1 Tbsp of the olive oil on high heat. Add rabbit thighs and shoulders and sear for 8 to 10 minutes until golden brown. Remove the rabbit and add carrots, celery, onion and garlic. Roast until well browned, about 12 minutes. Deglaze the pan with Madeira, add chicken stock and bring to a boil. Return thighs and shoulders to the pan, cover and braise in the oven until tender, 60 to 80 minutes. Set the meat aside and pass the braising liquid through a sieve into a small saucepan. Heat the liquid until it is reduced to the consistency of cream, about 20 minutes.

Remove the bone from the thigh. Heat the thigh gently in the sauce. Chop olives. Remove the meat from the shoulder and shred, then add chopped olives and ricotta cheese and season with salt and pepper. Roll out pasta to the thickness of a dime and cut the sheet into eight 2½-inch squares. Place an eighth of the shoulder farce in the middle of each square and fold the pasta over to form a triangle. Seal the edges with a fork. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and blanch for 3 minutes, then plunge the ravioli into an ice bath to refresh.

Heat the remaining 2 tsp of olive oil in a small non-stick pan on medium heat. Add ravioli and lightly sauté for 2 to 3 minutes on each side.

ROASTED RABBIT LOINS Trim the fat from the rabbit bellies. Remove the skin from the kidneys, and cut them in half. Clean the livers and cut them into two even strips. Place kidney halves and a strip of liver on top of each belly, touching the loin. Wrap the belly around the kidney and liver to form a cylinder, and wrap each cylinder with two sheets of caul fat, securing it in four or five places with butcher’s string.

Preheat the oven to 350°f. Heat a large, ovenproof sauté pan on low heat. Add loins and sear for 2 minutes per side, then roast in the oven for 6 to 8 minutes, turning the loins halfway through. Allow to rest for 6 to 8 minutes. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add baby carrots and cook for 3 minutes. Remove them from the water and season with salt and pepper. Heat vegetable oil in a deep fryer or medium saucepan to 400°f. Plunge sage leaves into the oil and fry for 3 to 4 seconds. Remove them from the oil, lightly season with salt and allow to drain on paper towels.

TO SERVE Spoon 1 tsp of tapenade around each of four plates. Lay two ravioliat one end of the plate. Place two artichokes on one side of the ravioli and three carrots on the other. Place a thigh in the centre of the plate. Cut each loin in half, and place a piece on either side of the thigh. Spoon the sauce overtop and around the plate. Garnish with three fried sage leaves.

SUGGESTED WINE Both white and red burgundy wines complement this dish. Try Chassagne-Motrachet for a white wine or Morey-Saint-Denis for a red wine.

Sherry-Poached Pears With A Pear And Raisin Compote And Maple-Roasted Walnuts

POACHED AND ROASTED PEARS

  • 4 ripe Bartlett pears
  • 1 1/4 cups oloroso sherry
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • Zest of 1/2 orange
  • 1/4 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1/4 cup raisins
  • 2 Tbsp honey
  • Juice of 1/2 lemon

MAPLE-ROASTED WALNUTS

  • 3/4 cup walnuts
  • 1/4 cup maple syrup

CRISPY FILO

  • 1 tsp honey
  • 1 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted
  • 2 sheets filo dough

Serves 4

POACHED AND ROASTED PEARS Peel, core and slice off the bottom half of each pear. Dice the bottom halves and set aside. Place pear tops in a medium saucepan with sherry, sugar and orange zest and simmer until tender, about 1 hour. Allow to cool. Remove pear tops from the liquid and set aside. Heat cup of the liquid on medium heat until reduced to a syrup, about 15 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°f. In a small roasting pan, combine diced pears, black pepper, raisins, honey and lemon juice. Roast this mixture in the oven, stirring periodically, until pears are tender but not mushy, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

MAPLE-ROASTED WALNUTS Preheat the oven to 350°f. Spread nuts on a baking sheet and lightly toast them in the oven for 10 minutes. Shake off and discard the skin from the nuts. Drizzle nuts with syrup and toss to coat. Return to the oven and, stirring every 5 minutes, bake until all the maple syrup has crystallized, about 20 minutes.

CRISPY FILO Preheat the oven to 325°f and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Whisk together honey and butter and brush onto one sheet of filo dough. Place the other sheet on top and flatten with a rolling pin. Brush the top with the honey butter. Cut the dough into dime-thick strips and lay them out on the baking sheet. Bake about 10 minutes until golden brown.

TO SERVE Roughly chop walnuts and toss with roasted pear mixture. Divide the pear and walnut mixture among four ring moulds the same diameter as the pear tops, pressing down gently with the back of a spoon. Carefully remove rings. Place the poached pear on top and drizzle sherry reduction over the pear. Sprinkle filo strips around the pear to look like a nest.

SUGGESTED WINE Try a very good cream or Pedro Ximénez sherry.